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(This transcription of Captain John Rolland's report of an expedition to the Gog Range – Mt Roland area was prepared by Bob Mesibov in March 1998 from Archives Office of Tasmania CSO1/95/file 2276.)Hobart Town 21st January 1824 Sir, Having reason to believe from a previous observation of a part of this Island
to the westward of the River Tamar, that a passage existed from the Macquarie River
to the north western Sea Coast, and that such a Passage was to be found by proceeding
in the first instance along certain plains which I had seen at a distance extending
to the westward for many Miles, between two ranges of high mountains and at the distance
of about 30 Miles South of the Sea Coast of Bass's Straits: I proceeded for the purpose
of exploring this passage to the Farm of Mr. Leith a Settler on the western or Quamby's
River. Leaving Mr. Leiths on the 27th Novr. I followed the course of the River to
the westward and on the 28th I entered by a narrow pass, where a branch of the River
falls over high rocks, the unexplored country, On that day and the following we passed
over plains of several miles in width composed partly of good dry Soil fit either
for pasture or tillage, partly of Swampy pasture ground and lastly of boggy unproductive
soil. Several Streams of excellent water forming part of Quamby's & the second western
River intersected these plains numerous fires lighted by the natives were seen in
every direction and though the nearest Hills were obscured by the smoke of the Grass
to which they had set fire, we saw only one near. On the afternoon of the second
day after making the plains, we entered an extensive forest the timber of which was
of the various kinds usually found in the Island but chiefly of stringy Bark. Several
rapid Streams ran through this forest and fell into the second western River. Occasional
Strata of Rock rose above the Surface of the Ground and one of the Streams was for
some distance confined in a very narrow and deep channel between rock of the same
description. It was on the evening of the same day while halting for the night on
the bank of this Stream, that I am confident I felt a slight Shock of an Earthquake
which was followed at a considerable interval by two or three Crashes proceeding
from the fall of trees on the side of the high mountains which had been overturned
by the shock. — On the 30th we crossed this Stream and were evidently entering a
more wild Country. It was here for the first time we saw some circular pits or ponds
in the Ground which we afterwards found to be numerous under the Mountains. At the
distance of two miles from the Stream we were met by a scrubby bare hill of considerable
height and we proceeded W.N.W. along the base of it, passing over numerous small
runs of water, which fell down its sides— About 12 O'clock we descended by a steep
bank, and entered a small plain covered with small high ferns at the extremity of
which we found the second western River flowing rapidly over a rocky bottom at the
base of the lower tier of the western mountains. At this place the body of water
in the river appeared to be equal to that of the South Esk and its course was from
West to East. Proceeding up the River in the Evening we found it made a sharp turn
to the South and was hemmed in by two very high and Scrubby hills, the sides of which
towards the River were perpendicular Rocks and it was impossible any longer to follow
its course upwards. On the first of December I found it necessary to halt, and employed
myself in collecting specimens of the Rocks, while two of the Soldiers were directed
to ascend the lower western tier and endeavour to descry an opening to the N.W. After
being absent for the greater part of the day they returned with their clothes much
torn and reported that they could not ascend the highest part of the mountain so
as to overlook the north- Country. They had however seen a small plain distant about 7 miles W.S.W. On the following day we forded the River about middle deep, and ascended the hill which bounded it to the west. After proceeding about 4 miles we came to the plain described by the men which was only a few acres of rushes; here we observed that the River divided into two parts, and the one which lay nearest to the direction which we wished to pursue again ran between perpendicular Rocks. To the N.W. the country presented an impenetrable high scrub which we attempted to pass through but were obliged to return not having made many yards progress after two hours exertion. We made our former halting place in the afternoon very much fatigued, the hills in this direction being covered with a very prickly Shrub, bound together by a tough though small Creeper which renders the ascent very laborious. For the three following days I searched in every direction for a pass between the two ranges of Mountains laid down in the accompanying Sketch. Penetrating through the first tier of scrubby hills which connect them we came on a small plain of 10 or 15 acres, filled with remarkable natural ponds in depth probably 40 or 50 feet and as many in diameter, two or three of these were dry, and in one the water appeared to have sunk into the Earth by a considerable opening at the bottom of it. I should conceive that in the rainy Season the whole of this plain is under water. Before making this plain my Compass which was in the pocket of my Waistcoat and fastened to it by a String had been torn out by the scrub. The country immediately to the westward of the plain, is not hilly but it is covered with various sorts of high Scrub and fallen Timber and though we penetrated a short distance into it we could not find any traces of the natives having been in that direction. At this time we had a good deal of heavy rain, and the sun was frequently obscured. This together with the high scrub and the loss of my Compass made it impossible to
proceed in that direction. On the 6th December when about to return for the purpose
of exploring a passage to the Lake River, from the plains we had passed over I perceived
an opening in the lower tier of the mountains which owing to the Country being so
thickly wooded we had not previously been able to discern. Proceeding by the side
of a considerable Stream we crossed the River by a good Ford when we found traces
of the natives and a plain of about 300 acres on the opposite side— The natives first
ran up the side of a tier, and having ascended it by what appeared to be their path,
while the Soldiers were cooking I endeavoured to get a view of the north- |
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conceive was distant Thirty five or 40 Miles to the Southward and westward of me. Upon the whole I determined from what I saw to endeavour to make a passage on the following day to the Northwest by crossing over the high part of the tier in preference to proceeding by the low part which lay to the west of me, and which I apprehend would be found impossible from Scrub. Indeed it appeared to me that I was now in a track of the natives to the Sea Coast. On the 7th we started early in the morning and though the tier was steep and very high, we got to the top without much fatigue as the passage was free from obstructions— After taking a second view of the Country as far as we were able to the Northwest, we began to descend where the ground appeared most open. For a considerable distance there was no obstruction but it gradually got thicker and we at last found ourselves encumbered with much scrub, decayed and fallen Timber and numerous deep Gullies on either side of us. It was now necessary to get to the bottom in the best way we could and as there was no compass it made it more difficult to keep a proper direction while the hill slopes rather to the Northeast. About midday we had got to the foot of the tier and had walked for three or four Miles in a bottom of scrubby and stringy bark in which we pursued our course to the northwest for that and the following day. In this bottom there was scarcely the trace of any Animal to be found. On the 9th I proceeded to the N.W. for the purpose of obtaining if possible a view of the Country— The thickness of the woods and the heighth of the underwood and Scrub prevented us from succeeding in this object. As we had now been forced by the nature of the Country altogether out of the line in which I had hoped to find a pass to the Northwest, and as our provisions were getting short I determined to return. Following the course of the stream which fell into the second western River we crossed and passing over certain plains seen by me on a former journey, in four days we reached Leiths— After procuring supplies we again set out for the purpose of ascertaining the direction in which the large River laid down in the Sketch falls into the Sea, which we accomplished in four days, and in six more made George Town, which we reached on the 24th having left on the 22nd of November. The Country which I have explored and which is laid down in the accompanying Sketch is in general of an inferior description to those parts of the Island which I have seen to the eastward. The greater part of the low Grounds are evidently much subjected to floods during the rainy season, while the hills are generally thickly wooded and scrubby, and the grass of both is for the most part of a coarse description. The Kangaroo grass however is to be found in some parts of considerable extent. From the proximity of part of it to the western mountains, the degree of cold during the winter must be considerable.— Abundance of the finest water in the Island, and a more lasting verdure during the hot Season will scarcely counterbalance these disadvantages. The plains laid down in the Sketch are considerably elevated above the level of the Sea. I should conceive that there are ten thousand acres of Ground generally clear of wood in the part of the plains which were within my view: while from the appearance of the country to the Southeast, I am led to believe that a greater extent of clear land exists in that direction, connecting these plains with the Lake River. After leaving the plains and crossing the lower tier of the western mountains, I did not meet with any good country till I again made the second western river at the junction of the stream laid down in the Sketch, where I found about 400 acres of open ground. The plains marked in the Sketch to the Eastward of the second western River, are
much intersected with scrubby hills which render it difficult to judge of their extent;
but I conclude that there are between Quamby's and the second western River, four
or five thousand acres of open Ground. This Country is excellently watered, and a
small part of it is not subject to floods. I do not think however that more than
five hundred acres could be taken in any part of it without including much scrubby
Ground.— The second western River is very much subject to floods, and its banks are
covered with great quantities of drift wood— The flat ground is of very small extent
and in most parts a range of hills which bound it to the East rise immediately from
the River. The sides of these hills towards the river are generally open and grassy—
Their summits and sides towards the East are covered with ferns from five to eight
feet in height which grow in a Red soil. This soil appeared to me well fitted for
growing Grain being apparently composed of decayed vegetable matter from fallen timber
and successive crops of the fern. This description applies to a considerable extent
of hill in that part of the Country. Between the second and first western Rivers
there is a narrow plain of good Soil which runs along the Coast for six Miles being
bounded towards the Sea with a brackish Lagoon. This plain probably contains four
hundred acres.— At the head of the south- good Land in this direction and towards Mr. Dry's farm on Quamby's river. Port Sorell is navigable for Boats within three miles of these plains. The Timber which I saw in the course of my journey, was of the same description as that found in other parts of the Country, with the exception of the Huon pine of which I found none. Fine stringy bark is abundant— Blackwood three feet in Diameter may be found in our Track homewards between the second and first western
Rivers. The She- were not to be found at any considerable distance from the Sea coast. I have to add that although we travelled eight hours per day and did not allow more than from seven to twelve Miles for the distance performed, I was obliged to reduce the distance to the Westward, which I had computed as that gone over in the reckoning I kept during the journey; and I am inclined to think that the Track laid down in the Sketch still measures the distance to which we actually went.I have the honour to be Sir Your most obedient Humble Servant John Rolland Captain 3rd Foot To his Honour William Sorell Esq etc etc etc Lt Governor |
